
Well a new year has brought a new blog, but not dampened my desire to travel, and so it was down to Malaga for a weekend to get some sun, and soak up a little more Spanish culture.
The least said about the flight there the better, when you board a Jet2 from Leeds Bradford to the Costa del Sol you pretty much know what you are going to get in terms of fellow travellers, and the collection of orange middle aged people going to holiday homes, and yobs going down to the Costa to get wrecked and have a ruck didn’t surprise me in the slightest. Luckily I got seated next to a nice couple, who at least had some grasp of the world to prove that not everyone on there was an obnoxious ****, however it’s true to say that most people on there don’t have the slightest idea that Andalucía is probably one of the most interesting parts of the world, they are just happy that they can get pissed up, lie on a beach, and get their full English breakfast every morning, not that I’m a travel snob or anything!
On leaving the airport most were heading west down the coast, whereas I was going East into Malaga itself, after the rainy, grey skies of Northern England it was nice to get some sun and see some blue sky, and I didn’t mind that I’d just missed a train so had to sit outside for half an hour.
After getting into the city my first impression was that, for Spain, it was remarkably quiet. The traffic was still there but there was something a little more peaceful that any of the other big Spanish cities that I’ve been to, a quick cortado and a tapa in a bar quickly got me in the Spanish mood though, but my lamentable Spanish came back to haunt me. A guy in the bar started to talk to me, and I could understand pretty much everything he asked me, but I was unable to reply with much more than “sí” or “no” – I really must start to make more of an effort if I want more rewarding experiences when I’m in the country.
In terms of sights Malaga itself isn’t overly blessed, the historic centre is nice enough to walk around and, despite the proximity of the Costa resorts and the presence of lots of bewildered Northern European daytrippers, quite Spanish. My first port of call was the Picasso museum, only recently opened to cash in on the daytrip crowd, I quite like some of his work. but it was a fairly underwhelming experience, you get herded through rooms full of paintings but with little supporting information and, to be honest, most of his best work is elsewhere. If anything the most interesting part of the museum is the archaeological section in the basements, showcasing where remnants of Roman structures were found during preparation for the building.
After grabbing some lunch I headed to the hostel I’d booked, which turned out to be a bit of a disappointment, recently voted one of the best hostels in the world it seemed to have attracted a clientele not typical of a hostel, with a block booking of older Germans in the city for a festival of theatre omnipresent, so I decided to head out and see what else I could see. I wandered down a pleasant, tree-lined street which led down to the waterfront and ended up at the city’s bullring. Noticing an open door I headed inside and into the seating, and saw what looked to be matador training taking place, no bulls were present but there were around 10 “trainees” who seemed to be being instructed on how to flourish their muletas and, in a way, sitting watching that for five minutes made me appreciate the artistic side of the spectacle a lot more than actually attending a fight itself did.

After heading back to the hostel, to find most of my fellow guests watching a DVD, I luckily managed to get chatting to another new arrival who was looking to experience the city and we headed out for some tapas and a few drinks, eventually settling on a bar “Pepa y Pepe” where we worked our way through the menu, while watching the staff and customers in action. It was one of the traditional Andalusian tapas bars where the staff are rushed off their feet constantly, but the food and drink still manages to come thick and fast, and tasted great. A couple more bars were tried and tested before we headed home, I needed a clear head and the ability to get up at a reasonable time the next morning!
Ronda was my destination on Saturday morning, and I made the choice to take the slowest bus option to get there, due to the scenery that route offered, driving along the coastal road Africa could be seen on the horizon, and the route inland up to Ronda itself offered spectacular views on its passage through the sierra.
Ronda is a wonderful small town, split by a gorge, El Tajo, which was been bridged by the Romans and Moors at various p
oints in the past, most spectacularly with the Puente Nuevo, which bridges a 90 metre drop. The town itself is full of remnants of Roman and Moorish rule, and more landmarks from the Catholic Monarchs to re-assert themselves after the reconquest. The old town is full of narrow streets that demand to be walked, investigated and explored and you couldn’t move for a few minutes without coming across another place of interest, landmark or interesting building. The town is surrounded by unspoilt countryside, and various stunning views are offered along with possibility of lots of trails that can be followed to your hearts content, with more gems to uncover.
I was in the town for six hours, just wandering around and losing myself in the place, and it cou
ld have been much longer. After eating in another busy tapas bar I visited Ronda’s bullring, one of the oldest in Spain, which is where the rules of modern bullfighting were first established. The ring itself was an atmospheric arena, even without anything taking place, and the museum and gallery of art contained within were extremely interesting and worth the visit. The town itself has at least 7 other museums, and it’s a place I could see myself re-visiting – though maybe not in the summer months, when I can imagine the hideous levels of tourists that must pass through.
After taking the direct route back to Malaga, and heading back to the hostel, I again met up with Jan and we headed out to eat and do some bar-hoping, eventually ending up in the place we were the previous night. Other highlights of the evening were a Russian bar, where the owner handed us out lots of free vodka shots because I identified the football scarf behind the bar as being that of Zenit St Petersburg, and having to have a mint tea in a Morrocan style tea-room, which we mistakenly entered thinking was a bar!
The next morning I was again up fairly early as I was heading to Madrid for “El Derbi” (separate blog to come on that), but I wanted to see the Alcazar in Malaga before I left. It was an impressive place but, after seeing the Alhambra in Granada, any other can only leave you a little underwhelmed, still it was nice to wander around the gardens for an hour or so, further up the hill the Castillo was, again, not much to write home about – though it did offer superb views over the city and meant even I could take a couple of decent photos!
After an arrival back into Malaga at 2am I had a lie in on my last morning, before spending a few h
ours wandering about the city before heading to the airport, and home, I took in Malaga’s remaining big attraction, the cathedral, which was a superb feat of architecture, and I headed to the (distinctly average) beach to relax with a book for a bit, and have a seafood paella from one of the bars on the promenade. Knowing I was going back to the wind, rain and grind in a few hours it was a nice little piece of escapism!